Where to savour the best champagnes in Paris over the holiday

Enjoy this overview from the Paris Tourism office on where to pop a  cork and enjoy sparkling bubbles

http://en.parisinfo.com/uploads/59//Trends_54.pdf

Buy experiences instead of things! Latest advice by the Journal of Consumer Psychology

Have a read at this extract from a Globe and Mail article further to some recent research published in The Journal of Consumer Psychology. The full article can be read at  www.theglobeandmail.com/.../money-can-buy-happiness-if-you-spend-it-right/article1787800/
 but in the meantime I cut an extract that offers a consistent message with what I hope to create for my clients: meaningful experiences that count on the happiness scale.
 

 

Here is the extract: "Buy experiences instead of things
Retail therapy is dealt a blow with this one. Studies show it’s better to buy something you can experience – a massage, a day on the ski hill, a trip to New York – rather than prop up your mood with a new dress.

Part of the reason is that experiences focus the mind and keep us rooted in the here and now. (“A wandering mind is an unhappy mind,” reads the paper.) A dress just doesn’t have the same power. If anything, it sends your mind off thinking about how it will transform you into someone better, which of course never happens.

Also, and more important, experiences give you sensory memories, even if it is just the strength of Sven’s hands on your sore glutes."

Perigord or Dordogne: The Frenchman's paradise in the Globe and Mail

I agree with this Globe and Mail article ( http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/travel/explore-the-frenchmans-paradise/article1784589/ ) that Perigord feels like a Frenchman' paradise especially off season when the crowds of international tourists from the Summer have dwindled. The area is rich in history, the country side is lush with rolling hills and rivers, many quaint villages with medieval castles to explore, and of course the prehistoric caves to stay cool and travel back in time. Lots of accomodation options and great rich food. Spring and Fall are a great time to go as I do mind exploring little villages or Sarlat when the ratio of tourists to locals seems like 10 to 1. This is when we get into a France of the museums I do not like.  Last time I was in Dordogne was right after Christmas . If you are OK with colder (and rainy at times) weather  and more limited options of places to visit, you will experience a more authentic place, with markets catered to locals and long meals of rich food by the fireplace after some nice walks or explorations of chateaux.
The location of Dordogne/Périgord  makes it possible to enjoy a vacation of contrasts in the Southwest of France as you can easily hop to the Bordeaux wine region within 90 minutes and then head  south for 2 hours to the Basque coast for the beach, mountains, a touch of Spain and a life loving locals. You can arrive in Bordeaux and explore the area, tour Dordogne, and hop back on a train or plane from Biarritz or Pau after enjoying the Basque country. Yes the South West of France is a Frenchman's paradise of contrasts and good life.

Video podcast on Bordeaux wines and its region for armchair travel

I recommend the 32 minutes  of video podcast at http://podcast.lcbo.com/lcbo/learn/podcasts/discover/videos/12_wines_of_bordeaux.html developed by LCBO, the government-run organization overlooking the sale of wine in Ontario.

I found the video to give to a good overview of the various wine regions, the unique caracteristics of wine making  for each one. At the same time you catch some good glimpses of majestic Bordeaux, Médoc, Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers, St Emilion and the nearby Côtes, and Sauternes. You get a good sense of why the Bordeaux region holds the title of wine capital of the world  and what it does to retain the title. More importantly  one is left with a better understanding of the rich range of wine offerings. Bordeaux are wines of winemakers who value terroir.  A votre Santé!

Gastronomy on the Spanish side of the Basque country: Bilbao & Hondarribia

The New York Times over the last 2 months wrote two interesting articles about gastronomy on the Spanish side of the Basque country, 2 destinations easily reachable  for the evening or the day for travellers staying on the French side, in the St Jean de Luz/ Biarritz coastal stretch:

1)  in the little town of Hondarribia, located right on the Spanish/French border: A Dining Explosion in a Tiny Basque Town at http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/01/travel/01Next.html?emc=eta1 Some good addresses for sure. Hondarribia is not as small as  what the article mentions. It has been very popular for many years among the habitants of Irun, as Hondarribia is like a fancy subburb by the beach of Irun, the busy commercial border town.  Hondarribia is rich in history ( ie the land of many battles) and its medieval architecture offers a treat to the eyes. While staying in France, on the French side of the Basque country, it is a very popular and easy to get to destination for a few drinks and pinxos ( basque word for tapas): you hop on a boat from the French town of Hendaye to cross the Bidasoa river that separates the two countries. Make sure you take a stroll up the hill all the way to the old town, la parte vieja,  after you warm up your senses with a couple of pinxos and a glass of txaculi  in the fisherman's village called la Marina

2) in the city of Bilbao well known for its Guggenheim: In Bilbao, it's not just the Museum  at http://www.nytimes.com/2010/10/10/travel/10Choice.html?emc=eta1 The renaissance of this city includes some amazing contributions in all price categories by various chefs. If coming from the French side on a full day outing to Bilbao, do spend the time to go to the Casco Viejo, the old quarter of town, reachable via a nice walk along the river from the Guggenheim.

No matter what, even if you are not a committed foodie, do take the time to enjoy  a few pinxos in the company of locals.

Canada welcomes Michel Hacala, French-Basque artist and his Canadian- Basque whaling scenes

NEWS RELEASE, October 7, 2010
Canada welcomes Michel Hacala, French-Basque artist who is painting Canadian-Basque whaling scenes

(Toronto) Michel Hacala has come to Quebec and Ontario to paint huge colourful images of Basque fishermen chasing whales in the Gulf of St. Lawrence in the late 1500s-early 1600s.

The highly successful painter-sculptor is himself from the Basque region of southwest France, and he even enjoyed a first career as a fisherman (in the Bay of Biscay, off France and Spain).

But why would he want to paint dreamy images from the pre-Jacques-Cartier era of Canada? You could say that he is chasing his ancestors and the contact they had with Canada’s whales and its First Nations peoples.*

An international exhibit of Hacala’s historic Canadian whaling series is being planned by the Basque Museum of Bayonne (France) and the new Cité de l’Océan (opening in Biarritz, France, in 2011). Exhibition partners are being sought in Canada, Spain, and North American locales where Basque people have settled over the centuries.

Hacala spent the month of September doing creative research and then painting in the Bas-St-Laurent region of Quebec (St. Lawrence Lowlands), thanks to Parc de l’aventure basque en Amérique in Trois-Pistoles (www.aventurebasque.ca), and artist Caroline Jacques’s workshop and gallery in St-Fabien (www.carolinejacques.com). The images Hacala worked on were just shown at the Parc de l’aventure basque en Amérique, and he and they come to Ontario in October as follows.

Museums, galleries, media, and other interested parties are all invited:

Collingwood: Thanksgiving Monday, October 11, 1:00-3:00PM, Alpine Equestrian Centre, just minutes from downtown Collingwood, 795601 Osler Bluff Road, www.alpineequestrian.com

Toronto: Friday, October 15, 2:00-7:30PM, Baby Point Clubhouse, 71 Baby Point Road, west end of Toronto, closest major intersection Jane & Annette Streets

Evelyne Dufau, founder of Expérience Authentique (www.FrenchSouthwest.com), is Michel Hacala’s agent in North America. Please contact her for further information about Hacala in Canada at (866) 760-9813 or 66 Baby Point Crescent, Toronto, Ontario M6S 2C1. Expérience Authentique organizes trips to the Basque coastal region of France and Spain, and more.

To see Michel Hacala’s extraordinary body of work (paintings, sculptures, mosaics), visit www. Hacala-art.com. His large paintings (200cm x 130cm) are typically priced in the range of 6,000 euros ($8,500 Canadian).

* Right and bowhead whales, once plentiful in the coastal Labrador waters and the Gulf of St. Lawrence estuary, attracted whalers from the Basque country during the 16th century. A thriving industry developed around whale oil, a highly prized commodity in Europe. Every spring until about 1626, the Basque sailed to their North American whaling stations, where they built stone ovens to prepare whale oil. Such ovens can be found on the Ile aux Basques (island of the Basques) that faces Trois-Pistoles, as well as a number of other artifacts.

Thanks to Guillaume Lamontagne, Parc de l’aventure basque en Amérique, for information for this news release.

Avoiding a large phone bill when travelling - New York Times & Globe and Mail articles

Canadians & Americans will value the advice contained in this June 7  Globe and Mail article  and the NY Times August 1 article on optimal strategies to stay in touch at a reasonable cost when traveling outside North America.

June 2009
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/technology/personal-tech/avoid-the-shock-of-cellphone-roaming-charges/article1594208/


The New York Time follows on August 1, 2010 with its take on it:
http://community.nytimes.com/comments/travel.nytimes.com/2010/08/01/travel/01prac.html
 
Talk, download, and send messages at a reasonable cost. Stay in the know without expensive roaming charges. Know what to do.

A dining explosion in a Tiny Basque Town - New York Times article on Hondarribia

Hondarribia ( Basque name), or Fuentarrabia ( Spanish name) or Fontarabie ( French name) is the 1st coastal town on the Spanish side after you leave France. Ideally you get there via a 7minute boat ride from the town of Hendaye on the French side to maximize the charm of the experience. The New York Times showcases the town and its gastronomy. Hondarribia have been a favourite outing  for vacationers and locals residing on the French side of the Basque country for many years now. Most of the people working in its bars and restaurants are bilingual ( Spanish & French speaking) or trilingual  ( Basque speaking for the younger generations schooled in Basque) as many went to school in France or deal daily with French clients. Indeed as the article points it out, it is great to enjoy a variety of gastronomical experiences bundled with lively small town atmosphere without the inconvenients of big city logistics. Aim for 1PM pre-Lunch tour for tapas on pintxos like we call them in Basque or  after 6.30PM and late into the evening. If returning  to France by boat, always find out before you leave the boat how late the boat operates as the schedule varies with the seasons and days of the week. Once we got caught and missed the last boat but were saved after our 8 yr old son waved to a fishing boat in the harbour begging for a ride home.
A 10 minute care ride from Hondarribia will take you to the church of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe from where you can enjoy a very scenic coastal hike along the Jaizkibel mountain, overlooking the ocean, following the coastal  pilgrimage path leading to St James of Compostela. Very easy to enjoy as a half day outing from St Jean de Luz or Biarritz if vacationing in France. The most courageous will make it a full day outing and walk to Pasai ( Pasajes in Spanish), another interesting coastal town that used to be a hang out of Victor Hugo. Pintxos always taste best after a great hike!

When Paris Chefs, not Prices, rise: NY Times article in April 2010

Reviews of new Paris restaurants opened by young chefs under 40. The focus is on quality food in your plate and less on decor and glamour, at attractive prices for Paris.  Written by the food editor of The New York Times Magazine. Bon appétit!

Globe & Mail articles on Paris for a stay in an apartment rental

Check out these two  April 10-2010 Globe and Mail articles

"Live and eat like a true Parisian" at http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/travel/live-and-eat-like-a-true-parisian/article1529155/?service=email.


and
 
"When in Paris, you really must ...¦" at http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/travel/when-in-paris-you-really-must/article1529260/?service=email.


I might have some good appartment suggestions for you in Paris as well. I know both  appartments and owners well for added peace of mind.

Ventas in the Basque country: hike, eat and relax in the Pyrénées mountains

When vacationing in the French Basque country, consider having a simple meal in one of the many casual inns located in the Pyrénées mountains on the Spanish border , at the start, middle or end of a hike. Some can be reached by cars. Called VENTAS, they have an interesting history.


In the mid 1800s, a few Spaniards obtained rights to set up shops and inns on the French-Spanish border where they were able to sell goods to French people at the same lower prices as in Spain. To be easy to access, they were located in farms and sheepfolds along popular paths and roads that linked the two countries. Most ventas were set up after the 2nd world war. Since Spain was not actively engaged in WWII, it was easier to source specific products from the ventas than it was in France where quotas and shortages were common. Growing up in the 60s-70s, I remember our trips to the ventas that we would take once in a while with my family to shop for wine and liquors. My brother and I would get salty sunflower seeds to keep us occupied in the shop and on the drive back. I also remember the excitement of driving through French customs with the hope we would not get caught as there was a strict limit of bottles per person that of course most French people never respected. The ventas offered the French people the convenience of lower prices without having to drive further into Spain while still being serviced in French . I remember Spain as an austere country back then, during the Franco years, with fewer smiles on faces, dark clothes, and an omni-present police. The appeal of going into San Sebastian back then for the French was moderate, such a contrast with the exuberance found in the streets of Spanish city streets these days that the French are so fond of.

Today you find two types of ventas on the border. The 1st type looks like a grocery store where French people shop for lower priced Spanish goods, with the most popular ones being alcohol and tobacco, which are heavily taxed in France. With the development of car transportation, they have developed into little shopping plazas located on main roads on border crossing points, with various ventas competing next to each other. French locals and tourists shop there, with Irun, Behobie, Ibardin and Dancharia being the main destinations. There is no more stop nor anxiety at customs, and no Francs or Pesetas to convert, compliments of the European economic union. The second type of ventas, and the one I am personally very fond of are the ones still located along old hiking paths that were used by shepherds and smugglers. The fare served is casual and simple as in many cases supplies cannot be brought up by car. A typical menu would consist of salads, omelets, cured ham, may be a thick beef rib on the barbecue or some roasted lamb with fries, and of course ewe cheese with black cherry jam and rosé or red wine. This food of course tastes like a feast up in the mountain after a hike. Do not be surprised to share your table with other guests. Among my favourites ventas: Loretxoa in Sare by the grottos, Yasola on the Rhune, and the ventas on the way to the Penas d’Ichusi because of the spectacular hikes, all easy half day outings from the coast. Best to book in advance by phone as the owners might not work that day or they might be full. You can buy in the French Basque country a French guidebook dedicated to most ventas, GUIDE des VENTAS, with detailed hike info, contact info, prices and menus. Also bring cash as credit card payments might not be possible. Indeed French urbanites have developed a strong craving for this kind of experience and I fully understand why. Hope you give it a try.

Advice when renting a vacation home in France

Define the vacation experience that you are after
The most important step is to first define the vacation experience you are looking for. For most of us, you also need to establish a budget. Then you can narrow down on the French region, the city-town-village, and finally the vacation home that will deliver the vacation experience you are looking for. The most beautiful villa in the middle of gorgeous countryside but a long car ride away from lots of things might be good for a few days but not deliver on what France might be all about: the sense of living in a quality French community with lots happening. This is true when vacationing as a family and even more important when vacationing with a group of friends or extended family: having things to do under walking distance might be important to provide enough independence to everyone without the need to secure transportation and activities for everyone. It is your vacation, you do not want to be a host all the time.


What affects the cost:
- Timing for a rental is an important factor as prices vary greatly with the season. For instance in the French Basque country, early Spring- late Fall villa rental prices can be half of the cost of July and August. Schooled-aged children in North America tend to finish school earlier than French kids, therefore the late June early July timeframe offers some good savings. Paris hotels on the other hand are at their cheapest point in late July to late August when the European business crowd is on vacation.
- The old adage location, location, location also applies to the vacation rental market and is very much a reflection of property values in France and the region you are targeting. Renting in the proximity of the centers of St Jean de Luz or Biarritz in the Southwest of France, where beaches, markets and cultural activities are available under walking distance, commands premium prices.
- With comparable locations, pay attention to: overall exterior and interior surface area, distinguishing what matters to you: more common living space vs more bedrooms and bathrooms? State of maintenance, especially kitchen, bathrooms, and mattresses? Swimming pool (off season, when most pools are not heated in France should not lead to a premium)? Privacy from neighbours? Quality of furnishings and appliances? Availability of parking spaces for homes in center of town? Is cleaning at check out or during the stay included?


Why a good country-region vacation rental specialist matters to find and book your vacation rental:
- (S)he will consult you on the merits of one region vs the other and will match your expectations with the right French region, down to a town and the shops and facilities of the neighbourhood.
- As long as (s)he has done regular house inspections, (s)he will be able to compare various properties with objectivity vs dealing directly with an owner over the internet who is by nature biased on the merits of his/her property. The specialist can also filter out for you the owners you do not want to deal with.
- A specialist will put together a proper rental contract in English and facilitate all of the back and forth and payment with the French speaking owner in a transparent fashion for you.
- Also, a good specialist will offer concierge services ( ie a welcome and orientation in town, a stocked fridge upon arrival, etc…), and à la carte activities (guided tours of towns and markets, cooking class, wine & cheese tasting, visits of artisan workshops etc…) or logistical services ( babysitter, catering service, yoga, summer camp for kids etc…) for you to further immerse yourself and relax.
- You should receive some detailed information on the region, suggestions of outings, shops and restaurant recommendations, a calendar of cultural events scheduled during your stay

By following these tips and working with a professional with true local knowledge and who has done the demanding on-site research work, you can enjoy peace of mind and the vacation your dreamt about.

TestimoniaL: what a family stay in Saint Jean de Luz feels like

A testimonial from the Benoit-Lorenz family, Toronto, Canada

With Evelyne’s help, we had a fantastic family experience in France. I had been waiting until our children were old enough to follow all day and stay awake until the end of the French dining hour. The wait paid off. We started with 3 days in the heart of Paris and followed with a 2 week apartment rental in probably one of the most family friendly towns in France, St. Jean de Luz,........ in the Southwest of France.
Evelyne arranged everything we had asked for and gave us more. All I wanted was for my children to experience a 2 week stay in the heart of a French town, to absorb the culture & language and have fun. She strongly suggested St. Jean de Luz for us and our children aged 8yrs old and 10 yrs old. There was never a dull moment ! This gentrified “fishing village” offered good restaurants, fabulous pastry and candy shops, shopping streets and a charming town square, where community concerts were held two nights a week until 11:00pm with confetti fights and fireworks ! Amazing fun during the summer…ask Evelyne for the dates of these “animation events” . They were a highlight for our children, as was the fabulous sandy beach, complete with cabanas for rent, beach camps for kids, including one that charged by the hour……and wonderful crepes and grilled sandwiches on the upper boardwalk. Evelyne certainly delivered our the request to be in "the centre of the action" of a small town, our 2 bedroom and 2 bathrm apartment was charming, simply furnished with a renovated kitchen and excellent restaurant on the main floor. We had antique wooden shutters to adjust in the morning and at night and 3 sets of French doors that led to a narrow balcony. We heard occasional chatter from below and church bells,... but that’s exactly what I wanted ! Lodging children in an apartment with a gourmet market a few blocks away was a blessing, we ate out quite a bit, but when the children felt like they had had enough “steak haché and frites", it was comforting to make their favourites in our own kitchen and then to just warm up gourmet food from the Market or Rue Gambetta for the adults.

Our rental car provided easy access to Spain, just a few minutes away. The two cities/towns we spent time in were St. Sebastian ( a beautiful costal city, with a proud history and festive people, the kids loved going on Sunday afternoons for the liveliness of the streets and for tapas) and Bilbao ( site of Frank Gerhy’s renowned Guggenheim Museum and home to a very interesting neighbourhood called the Sete Calas, a short walk or tram ride down the shore of the river, with a bridge by architect Santiago Calatrava over it (Calatrava designed the Galleria at BCE Place in downtown Toronto). We all enjoyed spending a few hours in Biarritz, the surfing capital of France, just 10 km up the coast. There we were mesmerized by the huge waves and fell in love with the cosmopolitan nature of this costal town. My husband took a surfing lesson and would have enjoyed more if time had permitted. It was very pleasant to explore the local castles and inland villages of the Pays Basque.

We were very happy to have Evelyne’s “ Carnet de Voyage”, it was full of maps and brochures for all kinds of interests. It also contained a personalized booklet of Evelyne’s own advice on the travelling in Paris and the Southwest of France, with very wise advice on how to get the most out of the experience. My only regret is that 3 weeks was not enough time to get around to everything described in it. The “ Carnet de Voyage” was invaluable !
If someone told me that I was obliged to “only” vacation in the Southwest of France for the next few years, I would not be upset at all….nor would my children !
Do check out St. Jean de Luz on Google Earth and see for yourself !

Galette des Rois or the King' cake: one for the North, one for the South

Have a look at the recipe published by the Globe & Mail for la Galette des Rois ( by clicking on the title of this post), a cake behind good moments at the table with family or friends throughout the month of January.  January 6 is the day of the kings, ie the day when  the wise men, following a special star in the sky, would have arrived to visit baby Jesus. In France,  a country with dwindling amount of practicing Catholics,  it is more of an excuse to keep the spirit of the holiday season alive and wish each other new year wishes over a good desert. The lucky charm hidden in the cake, la fève,  makes it a favourite of young  and old gourmets. In fact the tradition goes that whoever gets the lucky charm, aside from becoming the King or Queen of the day and wearing the paper crown,  gets to buy the next cake and a bottle of champagne. This cake sharing ritual can  therefore go on throughout the entire month of Janurary, a pleasant way to transition into a new year after the feasts of the holidays.

The North of France serves la galette parisienne, a cake with some almond paste in a puff pastry that is proposed in the Globe and Mail. It is not very different from a  traditional cake found year round in France called frangipane but  includes a lucky charm and gets sold with the paper crown.  You can easily find la galette parisienne in North American French pastry shops. I like to get ours at Ma Maison in the West end of Toronto.  In the South of France, la galette des rois is totally different: shaped like a large donut with crystals of iced sugar and fruit confits on top, no filling, just a light raised dough with similarities to a brioche, with of course the lucky charm hidden inside. You have to try both. The one from the South, only available at this time of the year, brings back good childhood memories so I am a bit biased. I have never seen it sold in North America yet. In my region, pastry shops can develop quite a reputation for whoever has the best one. We used to say Etchebaster in St Jean de Luz, and Mauriac in Bayonne when I was a kid. I am not completely up to speed on French Southwest galette des rois rankings any longer but the ones I had this year in various homes did hit the spot! Yes we had an early start, we started eating it right after Christmas as pastry shops have jumped on the marketing bandwagon. The wise men must be travelling by TGVs this day and get to destinations faster....

A Spanish toast to wish you a good 2010

I was privileged over the holidays to spend a day getting to know a renowned Basque artist whose work captures my love for my region of birth. I am delighted to share this painting by Michel Hacala along with my New Years wishes to Expérience Authentique's blog readers. I plan to give his work some exposure in North America.

In the French tradition, one conveniently does not send Christmas cards but instead sends New Year wishes before January 31st . Let me wish you a healthy 2010, with lots of time to enjoy life with family and friends. The Spanish have a great way to toast which I would like to borrow for the occasion: Salud, Amor y Pesetas….. y Tiempo para Disfrutarlos. This translates as Health, Love, Money & Time to enjoy them!

After slowing down over the holidays and now getting back into the fast track, I find it particularly helpful to remember that time is the most precious gift we can give and receive.

Wishing you in 2010 lots of Salud, Amor, Pesetas y Tiempo para Disfrutarlos. .
Evelyne

A day in Michel Hacala’s home, renowned French Basque artist

The first time I stumbled on Michel Hacala’ paintings was in an old Basque farm in the village of Sare in 2004, the former hiding place for a number of Spanish refugees during the civil war in the late 1930s. In one of the rooms is a well known mural by a now deceased but renowned painter; I had heard about a temporary exhibit happening there, for Michel Hacala’s paintings, an artist I knew nothing about. The large oil formats made a huge impact on me: simple life in the Basque country was captured with poetry, sailors at work or resting combined with strong oceans backgrounds mixed intense shades of blue. That art work crystalized the warm feelings and nostalgia I felt for my region of birth, and its people. That Summer of 2004 I penciled in the name of the artist, with the desire to find out more about him and the dream of owning one of his works one day.

Over the last 5 years, I came across Michel Hacala’s work in other occasions and places, his paintings, his sculptures, his mosaics and every time his artistic language spoke to me. I had to meet with him which I ended up doing in 2007 at his house. It was indeed a privilege to go through his studio, a simple garage set in beautiful natural surroundings. Now two years later, I plan to incorporate Michel Hacala’ s artwork into the branding of Expérience Authentique as it captures so well the appeal of life in that French Basque region. I also plan to give exposure to Michel Hacala’s work in North America as I believe the poetry of his work will touch others in this continent like it has in Europe.

Michel ‘s family treated me to some warm hospitality on a cold December day in their amazing house, I got to know more of his work, his motivations, his interests and I now hope to share them in a respectful manner in North America. Later in 2010 I will have a section on the Expérience Authentique web site dedicated to his work. For now here are a couple of appetizers.

Christmas in the Southwest of France: Evelyne's snapshots

For many of us the family dimension takes over at this time of the year. The same applies in les Landes, about 30 minutes north of Biarritz where I grew up, this means that you submit your entire body and soul to a marathon at the table. Yes, amazing food, and great and not that great conversations get shared for hours with families over Christmas and then with friends as the 31st approaches. I will not write more about foie gras, shell fish trays, chestnut stuffed birds, bûche de Noel, duck confit and magret, galette des rois, Sauternes, Jurançon, Médoc etc… I prefer to eat and drink them in good company than write about them. Let me focus instead on what else I enjoyed.

The weather was full of contrasts, we had both Winter and Spring in this 2 week period. A thin layer of snow and cold temperatures covered the valleys, plains and mountains of the Basque country and Landes region ( traffic in Paris was paralyzed for a few days!) but soon after Christmas we enjoyed peaks of 19 degrees Celsius with opportunities to walk and bike in t-shirts. Our extended family was able to catch the cold front and some fresh snow, and ski La Mongie-Barèges, the largest ski domain of the Pyrénées, a 2 hour drive from the Basque coast. The Tourmalet pass, a demanding and well known stage in the Tour de France, separates La Mongie from Barèges ski resorts. In the winter, the road is of course closed to traffic with an altitude above 2000 meters. It is right on top of the pass though that we took off our skis and recharged with a mulled wine and crêpes au sucre. The inn, most likely a busy place in the Summer, appears very quaint in the Winter with supplies brought by people on ski or snowmobiles. There is an old fashioned feel to it with old black & white pictures of Tour de France cyclists, pioneer skiers and alpinists from the 50s. La Mongie-Barèges offer low key skiing, not the glamour of the Alps, but it is a mountain where you feel more like a shepherd at times skiing its narrow bowls. The mountain village of Barèges with its old grey slate roofs and thick walls does it for me for a couple of nights. The village has offered spa treatments and various water based therapies for years leveraging the rich properties of its hot springs. Lately a swimming pool fed by hot springs has been opened to welcome everyone for after ski relaxation, a nice plus since hotels only offer basic services.

Back on the coast in Biarritz, the city shines over that 2 week holiday period with evening light shows on buildings and ocean waves. The 2km coastal walk from la Plage des Basques to the lighthouse is quite enjoyable with the waves crashing loudly on shore. One of the operas of the New York Met was broadcast live over the holiday and lots of choral singing fed the musical soul. In Bayonne, our family indulged the century old recipe of foamy hot chocolate in which you drop spoonfuls of chantilly that deliciously melt in your mouth. Yes the streets and old walls of Bayonne are full of local life at this time of the year. We wrapped up our evening by attending a professional rugby game with the local team facing Paris Racing. Bayonne people have supported their Aviron Bayonnais team for years for the best and the worst. In the Southwest of France, soccer is only a TV experience for people but a rugby game is like a religious experience of some sort: you have to attend it! Fragile ears and shy singers should avoid it but I had fun re-immersing myself in this rugby culture.

My Southwest of France in December was also rich in bike rides and walks. The Adour River is surrounded by ancient flood plains, called les Barthes, that provides today a rich habitat for birds ( egrets, storks etc…). Along the shores, hundred of years ago, boats carrying merchandise were pulled by oxen taking full advantage of the tide currents. Today those paths offer easy bike rides or hikes on flat roads surrounded by trees, grass, water and old farms.

Living away from the ocean for most of the year in Toronto, Canada, I need to spend some hours walking along the beach. I particularly enjoy the wild and rough beaches hidden behind sand dunes along the Landes coast. They are part of a 200km stretch of uninterrupted sandy beaches from the North of the Basque country all the way to Arcachon near Bordeaux. You will find trendy resort towns along the way, Hossegor and Capbreton being the big draws close to home, 30 minutes north of Biarritz. That region is often referred to as the California coast of Europe with a dominant surfing culture and wild nature. Hollywood glamour you will not find. Walking the boardwalk in Capbreton , it is a pretty down to earth type of crowd made of locals and big city Frenchmen and Spaniards craving for fresh air and ocean.

Paris in December: Evelyne's snapshots

Picture a constant buzz of people out and about within a background of Xmas lights. Of course the Champs Elysées are a draw for Parisians at this time of the year, with thousands of lights, looking like drops of blue water falling off the trees, the well lit Grande Roue ( the Big Wheel) set on la place de la Concorde and little huts along the avenue recreating a traditional German Xmas market. I spent time in the Virgin Megastore on les Champs, the largest retail store of the kind in France but yet not large enough to handle the huge crowds. I would like to get my hands on statistics that would compare shopping habits of French people versus North Americans when it comes to the consumption of music, books, magazines, DVDs, games. There is a lack of optimism in France generally speaking when it comes to retail but that sector definitely looked super healthy at 6PM and also before midnight when I returned hoping to find smaller line ups at the cash. The French are avid consumers of media & entertainment materials, rich or poor.
Vélibs keep on going in the winter, but dress warmly if you want to use them. I did notice and read about many more dedicated bike paths throughout the city and more Vélib stations have been added ( check out http://www.velib.paris.fr for a map of stations). With more North Americans getting credit cards with built in chips, the freedom offered by this short term bike rental system finally becomes yours too. For those committed shoppers , especially in December or in January during the sales period, I successfully qualified a building made of new 3-star rated apartments with hotel type à-la-carte services right by l’Opera and the big department stores of Galaries Lafayette & Printemps; it has its own Vélib station as you step out of the building, a convenient way to take a break out of the shopping district and see more of Paris. On 4 day long stays or longer, the rental of an apartment offers some cost benefits over a hotel stay with guests enjoying the flexibility and savings to have a few meals in their temporary homes. I did requalify a couple of one bedroom apartments in lively and artsy Le Marais, a 5 minute walk from Hotel de Ville and BHV store, where one feels like a Parisian. I in fact stayed in one of them during this stay as the very central location makes it ideal to get to my various meetings while the neighbourhood remains vibrant all day and all night for a drink with friends. Finally I confirmed an excellent pick for guests who want a Paris with a view and large spaces: a 2 bedroom on the left bank, next to the exclusive Tour d’Argent restaurant, overlooking la Seine and Notre Dame cathedral. Yes I did enjoy overlooking les Bateaux Mouches going by the Seine with Paris by night shining in its Christmas grandeur.
Our 8 and 10yr old children were with me for a couple of days of visits in Paris. We made a compromise: I wanted to visit Musée Cluny dedicated to the Middle Age and they wanted to see a temporary exhibit on Astérix, the famous cartoon character, that was celebrating his 50th birthday, a temporary exhibit set within the walls of Musée Cluny. Perfect! The kids were then keen on visiting Paris sewers and catacombs! Children have their own agenda and quirky ways to define what is interesting. Indeed I had never seen the Paris sewers and its museum. Well, it was a very interesting stop with a combination of real sewage canals the kids were happy to race by and comment on, followed by a museum section. The exhibits took us through a trip back in time from Roman times to the 21st century. It highlighted the problems the growing population faced over the last 2000 years and the solutions found by its leaders to ensure both access to clean water and disposal of soiled waters as Paris transformed itself from village to major urban center. It is a good historical overview on how Paris became the prestigious destination it is today while initiating people to water management habits and technologies. I remember reading a line from Napoleon who claimed that the radical improvement of Paris sewers was probably one of his most important accomplishments but for which he will not gain any glory. The catacombs were closed until early 2010 unfortunately, due to some recent vandalism. Paris below ground seems to attract many people! I was grateful to the children for the learning opportunity but happy to immerse myself back in the above ground appeals of the capital.