In the mid 1800s, a few Spaniards obtained rights to set up shops and inns on the French-Spanish border where they were able to sell goods to French people at the same lower prices as in Spain. To be easy to access, they were located in farms and sheepfolds along popular paths and roads that linked the two countries. Most ventas were set up after the 2nd world war. Since Spain was not actively engaged in WWII, it was easier to source specific products from the ventas than it was in France where quotas and shortages were common. Growing up in the 60s-70s, I remember our trips to the ventas that we would take once in a while with my family to shop for wine and liquors. My brother and I would get salty sunflower seeds to keep us occupied in the shop and on the drive back. I also remember the excitement of driving through French customs with the hope we would not get caught as there was a strict limit of bottles per person that of course most French people never respected. The ventas offered the French people the convenience of lower prices without having to drive further into Spain while still being serviced in French . I remember Spain as an austere country back then, during the Franco years, with fewer smiles on faces, dark clothes, and an omni-present police. The appeal of going into San Sebastian back then for the French was moderate, such a contrast with the exuberance found in the streets of Spanish city streets these days that the French are so fond of.
Today you find two types of ventas on the border. The 1st type looks like a grocery store where French people shop for lower priced Spanish goods, with the most popular ones being alcohol and tobacco, which are heavily taxed in France. With the development of car transportation, they have developed into little shopping plazas located on main roads on border crossing points, with various ventas competing next to each other. French locals and tourists shop there, with Irun, Behobie, Ibardin and Dancharia being the main destinations. There is no more stop nor anxiety at customs, and no Francs or Pesetas to convert, compliments of the European economic union. The second type of ventas, and the one I am personally very fond of are the ones still located along old hiking paths that were used by shepherds and smugglers. The fare served is casual and simple as in many cases supplies cannot be brought up by car. A typical menu would consist of salads, omelets, cured ham, may be a thick beef rib on the barbecue or some roasted lamb with fries, and of course ewe cheese with black cherry jam and rosé or red wine. This food of course tastes like a feast up in the mountain after a hike. Do not be surprised to share your table with other guests. Among my favourites ventas: Loretxoa in Sare by the grottos, Yasola on the Rhune, and the ventas on the way to the Penas d’Ichusi because of the spectacular hikes, all easy half day outings from the coast. Best to book in advance by phone as the owners might not work that day or they might be full. You can buy in the French Basque country a French guidebook dedicated to most ventas, GUIDE des VENTAS, with detailed hike info, contact info, prices and menus. Also bring cash as credit card payments might not be possible. Indeed French urbanites have developed a strong craving for this kind of experience and I fully understand why. Hope you give it a try.
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