Hondarribia ( Basque name), or Fuentarrabia ( Spanish name) or Fontarabie ( French name) is the 1st coastal town on the Spanish side after you leave France. Ideally you get there via a 7minute boat ride from the town of Hendaye on the French side to maximize the charm of the experience. The New York Times showcases the town and its gastronomy. Hondarribia have been a favourite outing for vacationers and locals residing on the French side of the Basque country for many years now. Most of the people working in its bars and restaurants are bilingual ( Spanish & French speaking) or trilingual ( Basque speaking for the younger generations schooled in Basque) as many went to school in France or deal daily with French clients. Indeed as the article points it out, it is great to enjoy a variety of gastronomical experiences bundled with lively small town atmosphere without the inconvenients of big city logistics. Aim for 1PM pre-Lunch tour for tapas on pintxos like we call them in Basque or after 6.30PM and late into the evening. If returning to France by boat, always find out before you leave the boat how late the boat operates as the schedule varies with the seasons and days of the week. Once we got caught and missed the last boat but were saved after our 8 yr old son waved to a fishing boat in the harbour begging for a ride home.
A 10 minute care ride from Hondarribia will take you to the church of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe from where you can enjoy a very scenic coastal hike along the Jaizkibel mountain, overlooking the ocean, following the coastal pilgrimage path leading to St James of Compostela. Very easy to enjoy as a half day outing from St Jean de Luz or Biarritz if vacationing in France. The most courageous will make it a full day outing and walk to Pasai ( Pasajes in Spanish), another interesting coastal town that used to be a hang out of Victor Hugo. Pintxos always taste best after a great hike!