TestimoniaL: what a family stay in Saint Jean de Luz feels like

A testimonial from the Benoit-Lorenz family, Toronto, Canada

With Evelyne’s help, we had a fantastic family experience in France. I had been waiting until our children were old enough to follow all day and stay awake until the end of the French dining hour. The wait paid off. We started with 3 days in the heart of Paris and followed with a 2 week apartment rental in probably one of the most family friendly towns in France, St. Jean de Luz,........ in the Southwest of France.
Evelyne arranged everything we had asked for and gave us more. All I wanted was for my children to experience a 2 week stay in the heart of a French town, to absorb the culture & language and have fun. She strongly suggested St. Jean de Luz for us and our children aged 8yrs old and 10 yrs old. There was never a dull moment ! This gentrified “fishing village” offered good restaurants, fabulous pastry and candy shops, shopping streets and a charming town square, where community concerts were held two nights a week until 11:00pm with confetti fights and fireworks ! Amazing fun during the summer…ask Evelyne for the dates of these “animation events” . They were a highlight for our children, as was the fabulous sandy beach, complete with cabanas for rent, beach camps for kids, including one that charged by the hour……and wonderful crepes and grilled sandwiches on the upper boardwalk. Evelyne certainly delivered our the request to be in "the centre of the action" of a small town, our 2 bedroom and 2 bathrm apartment was charming, simply furnished with a renovated kitchen and excellent restaurant on the main floor. We had antique wooden shutters to adjust in the morning and at night and 3 sets of French doors that led to a narrow balcony. We heard occasional chatter from below and church bells,... but that’s exactly what I wanted ! Lodging children in an apartment with a gourmet market a few blocks away was a blessing, we ate out quite a bit, but when the children felt like they had had enough “steak haché and frites", it was comforting to make their favourites in our own kitchen and then to just warm up gourmet food from the Market or Rue Gambetta for the adults.

Our rental car provided easy access to Spain, just a few minutes away. The two cities/towns we spent time in were St. Sebastian ( a beautiful costal city, with a proud history and festive people, the kids loved going on Sunday afternoons for the liveliness of the streets and for tapas) and Bilbao ( site of Frank Gerhy’s renowned Guggenheim Museum and home to a very interesting neighbourhood called the Sete Calas, a short walk or tram ride down the shore of the river, with a bridge by architect Santiago Calatrava over it (Calatrava designed the Galleria at BCE Place in downtown Toronto). We all enjoyed spending a few hours in Biarritz, the surfing capital of France, just 10 km up the coast. There we were mesmerized by the huge waves and fell in love with the cosmopolitan nature of this costal town. My husband took a surfing lesson and would have enjoyed more if time had permitted. It was very pleasant to explore the local castles and inland villages of the Pays Basque.

We were very happy to have Evelyne’s “ Carnet de Voyage”, it was full of maps and brochures for all kinds of interests. It also contained a personalized booklet of Evelyne’s own advice on the travelling in Paris and the Southwest of France, with very wise advice on how to get the most out of the experience. My only regret is that 3 weeks was not enough time to get around to everything described in it. The “ Carnet de Voyage” was invaluable !
If someone told me that I was obliged to “only” vacation in the Southwest of France for the next few years, I would not be upset at all….nor would my children !
Do check out St. Jean de Luz on Google Earth and see for yourself !

Galette des Rois or the King' cake: one for the North, one for the South

Have a look at the recipe published by the Globe & Mail for la Galette des Rois ( by clicking on the title of this post), a cake behind good moments at the table with family or friends throughout the month of January.  January 6 is the day of the kings, ie the day when  the wise men, following a special star in the sky, would have arrived to visit baby Jesus. In France,  a country with dwindling amount of practicing Catholics,  it is more of an excuse to keep the spirit of the holiday season alive and wish each other new year wishes over a good desert. The lucky charm hidden in the cake, la fève,  makes it a favourite of young  and old gourmets. In fact the tradition goes that whoever gets the lucky charm, aside from becoming the King or Queen of the day and wearing the paper crown,  gets to buy the next cake and a bottle of champagne. This cake sharing ritual can  therefore go on throughout the entire month of Janurary, a pleasant way to transition into a new year after the feasts of the holidays.

The North of France serves la galette parisienne, a cake with some almond paste in a puff pastry that is proposed in the Globe and Mail. It is not very different from a  traditional cake found year round in France called frangipane but  includes a lucky charm and gets sold with the paper crown.  You can easily find la galette parisienne in North American French pastry shops. I like to get ours at Ma Maison in the West end of Toronto.  In the South of France, la galette des rois is totally different: shaped like a large donut with crystals of iced sugar and fruit confits on top, no filling, just a light raised dough with similarities to a brioche, with of course the lucky charm hidden inside. You have to try both. The one from the South, only available at this time of the year, brings back good childhood memories so I am a bit biased. I have never seen it sold in North America yet. In my region, pastry shops can develop quite a reputation for whoever has the best one. We used to say Etchebaster in St Jean de Luz, and Mauriac in Bayonne when I was a kid. I am not completely up to speed on French Southwest galette des rois rankings any longer but the ones I had this year in various homes did hit the spot! Yes we had an early start, we started eating it right after Christmas as pastry shops have jumped on the marketing bandwagon. The wise men must be travelling by TGVs this day and get to destinations faster....

A Spanish toast to wish you a good 2010

I was privileged over the holidays to spend a day getting to know a renowned Basque artist whose work captures my love for my region of birth. I am delighted to share this painting by Michel Hacala along with my New Years wishes to Expérience Authentique's blog readers. I plan to give his work some exposure in North America.

In the French tradition, one conveniently does not send Christmas cards but instead sends New Year wishes before January 31st . Let me wish you a healthy 2010, with lots of time to enjoy life with family and friends. The Spanish have a great way to toast which I would like to borrow for the occasion: Salud, Amor y Pesetas….. y Tiempo para Disfrutarlos. This translates as Health, Love, Money & Time to enjoy them!

After slowing down over the holidays and now getting back into the fast track, I find it particularly helpful to remember that time is the most precious gift we can give and receive.

Wishing you in 2010 lots of Salud, Amor, Pesetas y Tiempo para Disfrutarlos. .
Evelyne

A day in Michel Hacala’s home, renowned French Basque artist

The first time I stumbled on Michel Hacala’ paintings was in an old Basque farm in the village of Sare in 2004, the former hiding place for a number of Spanish refugees during the civil war in the late 1930s. In one of the rooms is a well known mural by a now deceased but renowned painter; I had heard about a temporary exhibit happening there, for Michel Hacala’s paintings, an artist I knew nothing about. The large oil formats made a huge impact on me: simple life in the Basque country was captured with poetry, sailors at work or resting combined with strong oceans backgrounds mixed intense shades of blue. That art work crystalized the warm feelings and nostalgia I felt for my region of birth, and its people. That Summer of 2004 I penciled in the name of the artist, with the desire to find out more about him and the dream of owning one of his works one day.

Over the last 5 years, I came across Michel Hacala’s work in other occasions and places, his paintings, his sculptures, his mosaics and every time his artistic language spoke to me. I had to meet with him which I ended up doing in 2007 at his house. It was indeed a privilege to go through his studio, a simple garage set in beautiful natural surroundings. Now two years later, I plan to incorporate Michel Hacala’ s artwork into the branding of Expérience Authentique as it captures so well the appeal of life in that French Basque region. I also plan to give exposure to Michel Hacala’s work in North America as I believe the poetry of his work will touch others in this continent like it has in Europe.

Michel ‘s family treated me to some warm hospitality on a cold December day in their amazing house, I got to know more of his work, his motivations, his interests and I now hope to share them in a respectful manner in North America. Later in 2010 I will have a section on the Expérience Authentique web site dedicated to his work. For now here are a couple of appetizers.

Christmas in the Southwest of France: Evelyne's snapshots

For many of us the family dimension takes over at this time of the year. The same applies in les Landes, about 30 minutes north of Biarritz where I grew up, this means that you submit your entire body and soul to a marathon at the table. Yes, amazing food, and great and not that great conversations get shared for hours with families over Christmas and then with friends as the 31st approaches. I will not write more about foie gras, shell fish trays, chestnut stuffed birds, bûche de Noel, duck confit and magret, galette des rois, Sauternes, Jurançon, Médoc etc… I prefer to eat and drink them in good company than write about them. Let me focus instead on what else I enjoyed.

The weather was full of contrasts, we had both Winter and Spring in this 2 week period. A thin layer of snow and cold temperatures covered the valleys, plains and mountains of the Basque country and Landes region ( traffic in Paris was paralyzed for a few days!) but soon after Christmas we enjoyed peaks of 19 degrees Celsius with opportunities to walk and bike in t-shirts. Our extended family was able to catch the cold front and some fresh snow, and ski La Mongie-Barèges, the largest ski domain of the Pyrénées, a 2 hour drive from the Basque coast. The Tourmalet pass, a demanding and well known stage in the Tour de France, separates La Mongie from Barèges ski resorts. In the winter, the road is of course closed to traffic with an altitude above 2000 meters. It is right on top of the pass though that we took off our skis and recharged with a mulled wine and crêpes au sucre. The inn, most likely a busy place in the Summer, appears very quaint in the Winter with supplies brought by people on ski or snowmobiles. There is an old fashioned feel to it with old black & white pictures of Tour de France cyclists, pioneer skiers and alpinists from the 50s. La Mongie-Barèges offer low key skiing, not the glamour of the Alps, but it is a mountain where you feel more like a shepherd at times skiing its narrow bowls. The mountain village of Barèges with its old grey slate roofs and thick walls does it for me for a couple of nights. The village has offered spa treatments and various water based therapies for years leveraging the rich properties of its hot springs. Lately a swimming pool fed by hot springs has been opened to welcome everyone for after ski relaxation, a nice plus since hotels only offer basic services.

Back on the coast in Biarritz, the city shines over that 2 week holiday period with evening light shows on buildings and ocean waves. The 2km coastal walk from la Plage des Basques to the lighthouse is quite enjoyable with the waves crashing loudly on shore. One of the operas of the New York Met was broadcast live over the holiday and lots of choral singing fed the musical soul. In Bayonne, our family indulged the century old recipe of foamy hot chocolate in which you drop spoonfuls of chantilly that deliciously melt in your mouth. Yes the streets and old walls of Bayonne are full of local life at this time of the year. We wrapped up our evening by attending a professional rugby game with the local team facing Paris Racing. Bayonne people have supported their Aviron Bayonnais team for years for the best and the worst. In the Southwest of France, soccer is only a TV experience for people but a rugby game is like a religious experience of some sort: you have to attend it! Fragile ears and shy singers should avoid it but I had fun re-immersing myself in this rugby culture.

My Southwest of France in December was also rich in bike rides and walks. The Adour River is surrounded by ancient flood plains, called les Barthes, that provides today a rich habitat for birds ( egrets, storks etc…). Along the shores, hundred of years ago, boats carrying merchandise were pulled by oxen taking full advantage of the tide currents. Today those paths offer easy bike rides or hikes on flat roads surrounded by trees, grass, water and old farms.

Living away from the ocean for most of the year in Toronto, Canada, I need to spend some hours walking along the beach. I particularly enjoy the wild and rough beaches hidden behind sand dunes along the Landes coast. They are part of a 200km stretch of uninterrupted sandy beaches from the North of the Basque country all the way to Arcachon near Bordeaux. You will find trendy resort towns along the way, Hossegor and Capbreton being the big draws close to home, 30 minutes north of Biarritz. That region is often referred to as the California coast of Europe with a dominant surfing culture and wild nature. Hollywood glamour you will not find. Walking the boardwalk in Capbreton , it is a pretty down to earth type of crowd made of locals and big city Frenchmen and Spaniards craving for fresh air and ocean.

Paris in December: Evelyne's snapshots

Picture a constant buzz of people out and about within a background of Xmas lights. Of course the Champs Elysées are a draw for Parisians at this time of the year, with thousands of lights, looking like drops of blue water falling off the trees, the well lit Grande Roue ( the Big Wheel) set on la place de la Concorde and little huts along the avenue recreating a traditional German Xmas market. I spent time in the Virgin Megastore on les Champs, the largest retail store of the kind in France but yet not large enough to handle the huge crowds. I would like to get my hands on statistics that would compare shopping habits of French people versus North Americans when it comes to the consumption of music, books, magazines, DVDs, games. There is a lack of optimism in France generally speaking when it comes to retail but that sector definitely looked super healthy at 6PM and also before midnight when I returned hoping to find smaller line ups at the cash. The French are avid consumers of media & entertainment materials, rich or poor.
Vélibs keep on going in the winter, but dress warmly if you want to use them. I did notice and read about many more dedicated bike paths throughout the city and more Vélib stations have been added ( check out http://www.velib.paris.fr for a map of stations). With more North Americans getting credit cards with built in chips, the freedom offered by this short term bike rental system finally becomes yours too. For those committed shoppers , especially in December or in January during the sales period, I successfully qualified a building made of new 3-star rated apartments with hotel type à-la-carte services right by l’Opera and the big department stores of Galaries Lafayette & Printemps; it has its own Vélib station as you step out of the building, a convenient way to take a break out of the shopping district and see more of Paris. On 4 day long stays or longer, the rental of an apartment offers some cost benefits over a hotel stay with guests enjoying the flexibility and savings to have a few meals in their temporary homes. I did requalify a couple of one bedroom apartments in lively and artsy Le Marais, a 5 minute walk from Hotel de Ville and BHV store, where one feels like a Parisian. I in fact stayed in one of them during this stay as the very central location makes it ideal to get to my various meetings while the neighbourhood remains vibrant all day and all night for a drink with friends. Finally I confirmed an excellent pick for guests who want a Paris with a view and large spaces: a 2 bedroom on the left bank, next to the exclusive Tour d’Argent restaurant, overlooking la Seine and Notre Dame cathedral. Yes I did enjoy overlooking les Bateaux Mouches going by the Seine with Paris by night shining in its Christmas grandeur.
Our 8 and 10yr old children were with me for a couple of days of visits in Paris. We made a compromise: I wanted to visit Musée Cluny dedicated to the Middle Age and they wanted to see a temporary exhibit on Astérix, the famous cartoon character, that was celebrating his 50th birthday, a temporary exhibit set within the walls of Musée Cluny. Perfect! The kids were then keen on visiting Paris sewers and catacombs! Children have their own agenda and quirky ways to define what is interesting. Indeed I had never seen the Paris sewers and its museum. Well, it was a very interesting stop with a combination of real sewage canals the kids were happy to race by and comment on, followed by a museum section. The exhibits took us through a trip back in time from Roman times to the 21st century. It highlighted the problems the growing population faced over the last 2000 years and the solutions found by its leaders to ensure both access to clean water and disposal of soiled waters as Paris transformed itself from village to major urban center. It is a good historical overview on how Paris became the prestigious destination it is today while initiating people to water management habits and technologies. I remember reading a line from Napoleon who claimed that the radical improvement of Paris sewers was probably one of his most important accomplishments but for which he will not gain any glory. The catacombs were closed until early 2010 unfortunately, due to some recent vandalism. Paris below ground seems to attract many people! I was grateful to the children for the learning opportunity but happy to immerse myself back in the above ground appeals of the capital.